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Author My Oldham Conversions
royfellows

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Joined: 13/06/2007
Location: Great Wyrley near Walsall

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Posted: 15/02/2010 16:12:34
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I have never seen an R2 or experimented with one.

Is it small footprint same as the R5
The R5 is about the same as the head of a pin, I kid thee not.

A likely explanation is that the R2 and R5 have radically different beem patterns.
R2 is an QR-E
R5 is an XP-G

Confusing? Yes.

--

''the stopes soared beyond the range of our caplamps' - David Bick...... How times change
IP: 92.28.161.36
Vanoord

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Joined: 28/11/2005
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Posted: 15/02/2010 17:07:24
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A quick hunt through the Fenix listings:

Q5 - XR-E
R2- XR-E
R4 - XP-G
R5 - XP-G

I have just got my paws on a PD30 with the R4 (265 lumens) which was (initially) produced as a limited edition and is now out of stock again.

Apparently it has a wider spread than the R2 (235 lumens) version and thus the spot of the R2 version is actually brighter than the spot of the R4 version - making it look brighter even though it isn't.

The R-2, R-4 bit seems to be bin ratings, the rest is explained here:

XR-E LEDs have relatively big package size - 7x9mm with lens diameter of 5.6mm but die size is small - around 1x1 mm.

XP-G LEDs have much more smaller package size - 3.45x3.45mm, die size is almost twice bigger than that XR-E has.

That means that using reflectors of the same diameter XR-E-based flashlight will be far better thrower, while XP-G - a good flooder (quite a rough estimation but nevertheless)

Due to the smaller package size XP-G LED needs better heatsinking to dissipate heat for better perfomance and normal lifetime.

Also it is noteworthy that XP-G LEDs are more efficient than XR-E series - Cree claims them to be "37 percent brighter and 53 percent more efficient than the brightest XR-E LED".


Presumably you could get both XR-E and XP-G emitters in, say, an R4 bin but that might be getting a bit complicated...

--

Filling space until a new signature comes along...
IP: 81.134.115.102 Edited: 15/02/2010 17:09:00 by Vanoord
Morlock

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Posted: 15/02/2010 17:15:37
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royfellows wrote:

I have never seen an R2 or experimented with one.

Is it small footprint same as the R5
The R5 is about the same as the head of a pin, I kid thee not.

A likely explanation is that the R2 and R5 have radically different beem patterns.
R2 is an QR-E
R5 is an XP-G

Confusing? Yes.


Looks about 1 mm square at the emitter but the textured reflector may help with the side spill.



(click image to open full size image in new window)
IP: 86.23.79.179
royfellows

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Posted: 15/02/2010 17:25:58
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Para 3 of the above (Vanoord) paste in is wrong as I expect it was based on paper estimations rather than practical testing as I have done. Anyone with me yesterday would agree with me that the R5 XP-G, regardless of its wider beam pattern, out threw very noticeably the Q5 XR-E.

I rather suspect that this bears on my no spill problem, in as much as you cant have it both ways. However, I suspect that certain optics or reflectors can focus the Q5 into a very tight beam, as my fantastic Fenix TK11.


--

''the stopes soared beyond the range of our caplamps' - David Bick...... How times change
IP: 92.28.161.36 Edited: 15/02/2010 17:27:16 by royfellows
royfellows

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Posted: 15/02/2010 17:30:03
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Mr Morlock, thanks.

Nothing like an R5, there is a picture on KD web
[web link]

--

''the stopes soared beyond the range of our caplamps' - David Bick...... How times change
IP: 92.28.161.36
Morlock

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Posted: 15/02/2010 18:00:09
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royfellows wrote:

Mr Morlock, thanks.

Nothing like an R5, there is a picture on KD web
[web link]


Ahh, I see, the beam pattern pics explain a lot. Smile
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Morlock

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Posted: 17/03/2010 19:54:14
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OK, the 'Morlock Mediocre' lamp (Redwinch spin-off) is almost complete with the addition of a Luxeon 3 pilot lamp which has been de-rated by the addition of a 1 ohm resistor. Still a bit of tidying up to do.



(click image to open full size image in new window)



(click image to open full size image in new window)

Slip ring for power to pilot LED



(click image to open full size image in new window)

Brush contacts for common negative and positive for pilot.



(click image to open full size image in new window)

And finally some machining pics for Simon. Smile



(click image to open full size image in new window)


(click image to open full size image in new window)
IP: 86.25.11.149 Edited: 17/03/2010 20:01:06 by Morlock
royfellows

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Posted: 18/03/2010 10:32:50
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Very nicely made, it has the look of being very precicely engineered.

--

''the stopes soared beyond the range of our caplamps' - David Bick...... How times change
IP: 78.146.44.241
Morlock

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Posted: 18/03/2010 12:04:58
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Thanks Roy, I'm still a bit wary of that heat sink sticky tape holding the Led on, needs cutting to size and the wires tidying up.
All the limits and fits on the machining are easy to understand but 'double sided tape'? Big Grin

Time will tell I suppose.
IP: 86.29.124.2 Edited: 18/03/2010 12:13:05 by Morlock
james cartwright

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Posted: 18/03/2010 19:33:22
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Hi Morlock nice work could you please tell me how heavy is the head set when it is complete. IP: 88.106.251.127
Morlock

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Posted: 18/03/2010 19:46:38
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james cartwright wrote:

Hi Morlock nice work could you please tell me how heavy is the head set when it is complete.


It's 3 ounces heavier than standard but is not a problem. Smile
I could probably cut an ounce off with a bit more turning and a Lexan glass but it will probably stay as it is with a bit of tidying up.
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james cartwright

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Posted: 18/03/2010 20:05:14
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Morlock wrote:

james cartwright wrote:

Hi Morlock nice work could you please tell me how heavy is the head set when it is complete.


It's 3 ounces heavier than standard but is not a problem. Smile
I could probably cut an ounce off with a bit more turning and a Lexan glass but it will probably stay as it is with a bit of tidying up.

Thats not as much as i thought it would be.how is the glass to be held in?
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Morlock

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Posted: 18/03/2010 20:36:08
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James, have a look at the pics on page two of this thread.
The glass drops into the bezel on the right and the heatsink assembly (left) is then pushed up to it. The whole assembly is then screwed on to the headpiece.
Will be waterproofed with silicone sealant (glass) and a silicone grease on the thread.
IP: 86.27.37.97
james cartwright

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Posted: 18/03/2010 20:58:13
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Morlock wrote:

James, have a look at the pics on page two of this thread.
The glass drops into the bezel on the right and the heatsink assembly (left) is then pushed up to it. The whole assembly is then screwed on to the headpiece.
Will be waterproofed with silicone sealant (glass) and a silicone grease on the thread.


Thats realy neet 300 lumins is a nice out put to i think there is little point in takeing light output to far as it takes the fun out of being underground its ment to be dark its a mine Laugh i was perfectly happy with my incandesant oldham until that dam simon started flashing his shwanky Sten light around Laugh
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Morlock

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Posted: 18/03/2010 21:06:35
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There was some speculation as to whether the R2 could deliver 300 lumens but it was sold on Ebay as such. Must say I'm delighted with the improvement over the Oldham 1 amp bulb. IP: 86.29.121.30
james cartwright

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Posted: 18/03/2010 21:35:54
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Morlock wrote:

There was some speculation as to whether the R2 could deliver 300 lumens but it was sold on Ebay as such. Must say I'm delighted with the improvement over the Oldham 1 amp bulb.

Most of the chinese LED products tend to be a bit sketchy with there lumens estimates in my experience but 300 sounds about right after looking at the stationary pic you took
IP: 88.106.251.127
mountainpenguin

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Posted: 18/03/2010 23:09:48
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royfellows wrote:

I have never seen an R2 or experimented with one.

Is it small footprint same as the R5
The R5 is about the same as the head of a pin, I kid thee not.

A likely explanation is that the R2 and R5 have radically different beem patterns.
R2 is an QR-E
R5 is an XP-G

Confusing? Yes.


Ok there are 3 different bits of information.
The bin (Qn Rn) e.g. Q5, R2 etc. This specifies the efficiency i.e. lumens per watt.
The tint (temperature)
The package QR-E, XP-G This specifies the beam pattern.

In theory you should be able to get any combination (I am going to ignore the tint)

e.g.
QR-E R2
XP-G R2

however at any one time the "best" (highest efficiency) might only be available in specific packages.

The tint gets even more tricky as this also specifies the colour rendering index (CRI)

Its even more complex than that but its a better place to start than just looking at the bin.

IP: 83.67.133.116
Morlock

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Posted: 01/04/2010 22:11:47
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OK, one for the experienced LED users with converted Oldhams.
How well do the electronic bits cope with water ingess (if at all)?
So far I've sealed the glass, bezel thread and cable gland, I've also silicone greased the switch spindle felt washer.
IP: 86.25.3.69
Mr Mike

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Posted: 02/04/2010 07:59:29
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That's are very open ended question.

It will depend on the drive topology. A simple current limiting resistor, should cope fine.

A linear constant current drive may be OK, depends how the feedback operates, external or all fixed internally, and what values of resistor.

A switch mode driver will suffer the most as the feedback and compensation loop components (higher value resistors and capacitors) will have their values changed significantly by water getting over them.

Spraying with a conformal coating might just give it the edge and seal it against effects of a full dip in water, providing it is not subject to mechanical knocks that may break the coating.

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royfellows

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Posted: 02/04/2010 10:27:35
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For what its worth:
The old Oldham front seal I regard as US without the old reflector, its better replaced with a new one like the one Mr Mike supplies with his Retro conversions. Unless of course you incorporate the glass into your own front end extension.

Oldham switches are designed so that a bezel is forced against an impregnated felt washer. It’s pretty bombproof; I have never known one leak. Stewart Kirby lamps replace these with a rubber O ring.

The cable gland is best filled with silicone as I do on my lamps.

Wise to put a blob under the positive charge screw as well

Later designs have the charging assembly screw penetrate right into the lamp; early designs were a blind hole. Again, I seal with silicone.
The grey lamps were the first to be designed like this, then the black ones followed suit.

If in doubt, test the lamp in a bucket before fitting the electronics.


--

''the stopes soared beyond the range of our caplamps' - David Bick...... How times change
IP: 84.13.217.3
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